Tag: oregon

Trail Notes: A March Day on the Ramona Falls Loop

~ dougalexander

I’ve been putting off the Ramona Falls trail for years. I don’t know exactly why — it’s forty-five minutes from Portland, it’s not a difficult hike, and everyone who’s done it describes the falls as worth the trip. Maybe that’s the problem. When something gets described as “worth it” enough times, you start expecting the experience to be diluted by crowds.

March turned out to be a good call. Nine cars in the lot when I arrived at eight-thirty on a Friday morning. By the time I got back, a few more had shown up, but I had most of the trail to myself on the outbound leg.

The loop runs about seven miles depending on which source you consult. There’s some elevation gain — maybe 900 feet total — spread out enough that it doesn’t feel like a climb. The first mile follows the Sandy River before the trail cuts into the forest proper. After thirty-five years of teaching units on Pacific Northwest watersheds, there’s something satisfying about walking the ground you used to show on maps.

The falls are at about mile three. They fan out over a broad basalt formation in a way that doesn’t look entirely real until you’re standing next to them. I stayed longer than I needed to. The mist was heavy enough that I was glad I’d packed a spare fleece.

Practical notes:

  • The parking area requires a Northwest Forest Pass ($5 daily, $30 annual). I watched a ranger working the lot while I was eating lunch — he was thorough.
  • The Sandy River crossing depends on water levels. In March it was manageable — stepping stones and logs — but I’d check conditions before going in a wet year.
  • Some of the rooted sections on the return are slippery when wet, which in March means they’re slippery. Trekking poles helped.

Near the base of the falls, I watched an American dipper working the water for about ten minutes. If you haven’t seen a dipper, it’s worth knowing what you’re looking at: a small, plump, slate-gray bird that hunts underwater by walking along the streambed. It bobs constantly — hence the name. It looks like a biological mistake until you realize it isn’t one.

I’ll be back in late fall to compare notes. But March, with the mist still heavy and the trail mostly empty, might be the right time for this one.

Cannon Beach in October: Why the Off-Season Is the Right Season

~ dougalexander

I’ve been to Cannon Beach maybe a dozen times over the years — with my kids when they were small, with my wife for various occasions, once on a school trip I don’t need to go into. For most of those visits, it was summer, which means parking situations and shops full of people in matching fleeces buying taffy.

We went in October this year, on a Tuesday, and I’m not sure I can go back in summer now.

The drive up 26 from Portland takes about an hour and a half. On a Tuesday morning in October there was plenty of parking on Hemlock Street. We walked down to the beach and there were maybe twenty people in a quarter mile of shoreline. Haystack Rock was doing what it always does — sitting there looking improbable — but without anyone staging photos in front of it for once.

The water was cold. The sky was doing that layered gray thing the Oregon coast does in fall, where there are four different kinds of clouds at four different altitudes and the light keeps shifting. We walked south for about forty-five minutes and turned around. A brown pelican flew past at approximately eye level at one point, which still surprises me after all these years of living here.

We ate lunch at a place on Hemlock. We were the only customers. It was good.

A few practical notes:

  • Some shops close or reduce hours after Labor Day. If there’s a specific place you want to eat or shop, call ahead before making the drive.
  • The beach is windy in fall and winter in a way that’s different from summer wind. Fifty degrees with a twenty-mile-per-hour onshore breeze is not the same as fifty degrees in Portland. Dress for it.
  • Ecola State Park, just north of town, is worth the extra few miles if you have time. There’s a viewpoint about a mile in that looks south down the coast. In October it was muddy in a couple of spots but nothing difficult.

We drove back in the late afternoon when the light was going flat and pink over the Coast Range. I’ve seen it probably a hundred times. I didn’t take a picture, which I sort of regret and sort of don’t.